Bachkovo Monastery

Bachkovo Monastery is Bulgaria's second-largest monastery and one of the oldest functioning monasteries in Europe, founded in 1083 by the Georgian military brothers Gregory and Abasius Bakuriani, commanders in the Byzantine imperial army. Nestled in the dramatic gorge of the Chepelare River deep in the Rhodope Mountains, the monastery complex unfolds across three interconnected courtyards spanning nearly a thousand years of continuous use — from its medieval ossuary to the vibrant 17th-century cathedral covered in masterworks by Zahari Zograph. The monastery's miracle-working icon of the Virgin Mary Eleusa draws thousands of Orthodox pilgrims each year, and a centuries-old tradition sees the icon carried in solemn procession through the surrounding hills every Assumption Day. Beyond its spiritual significance, Bachkovo is the gateway to outstanding hiking along the Chepelare River gorge and to the dramatic clifftop ruins of Asenova Krepost fortress, making it one of the Rhodope's most rewarding cultural and natural destinations.

The monastery's three courtyards each have their own character and history. The oldest section dates to the 11th century and includes the ossuary church (kostnitsa), the sole surviving structure from the monastery's founding — its interior contains remarkably preserved medieval frescoes that rank among the finest examples of their kind in the Balkans, with haunting depictions of saints and donors against deep blue backgrounds. The second courtyard is dominated by the Cathedral of the Assumption, rebuilt in the 17th century and lavishly decorated by the master painter Zahari Zograph in the 1840s with vivid scenes of the Last Judgment covering the church's exterior gallery — sinners dragged to hell by demons rendered with disturbing creativity sit alongside serene depictions of paradise. The third courtyard houses the 17th-century refectory, which contains another magnificent cycle of Zograph frescoes illustrating the history of the monastery from its Georgian founders to the Bulgarian Revival. The refectory's long stone tables still serve communal meals during religious feast days. Just 3 km away, the spectacular ruins of Asenova Krepost (Asen's Fortress) cling to sheer cliffs above the gorge. This medieval fortress, originally built in the 11th century and expanded by Tsar Ivan Asen II in the 13th century, includes the beautifully restored Church of the Holy Mother of God with surviving frescoes. The monastery's own restaurant, set beneath ancient walnut trees in the outer courtyard, serves traditional Rhodopean dishes — try the monastery bean soup and the freshly baked bread.

Bachkovo is 30 km south of Plovdiv along the main road to Smolyan. Regular buses run from Plovdiv's Rhodope bus station every 30-60 minutes (about 45 minutes, €2.60 one way) — ask the driver for the monastery stop. The monastery grounds are open daily from 7:00 AM to 5:00 PM (later in summer). Entry is free, but donations are appreciated. Modest dress is required — covered shoulders and knees for both men and women. Photography is allowed in the courtyards and around the exterior frescoes but not inside the churches. To visit Asenova Krepost fortress, continue 3 km south along the main road or hike the marked trail through the gorge (30-45 minutes uphill, well worth the effort for the views). Several hiking trails follow the Chepelare River gorge in both directions, ranging from easy riverside walks to more demanding routes into the high Rhodope. Combine with a visit to the Bachkovo village for fresh trout at one of the riverside restaurants.